July 2020
When Radio SI informed us that we were chosen to discover the area of Brežice on horse and e-bike,
we were super excited. We would get to ride a horse, an electronic bicycle, and enjoy some local
culinary delights—an ideal itinerary for a Slovenian life-enthusiast and a Belgian gourmand. The
beautiful scenery that greeted us while we headed out to Brežice put us in a holiday mood. We were
ready for this two-day adventure, and the weather gods were on our side.
The unique scent of horses lingered in the sweet summer air as we arrived at the Vašcer Quarter Horses
ranch. We parked our car on an open spot, reserved for real cowboys, and were welcomed by Marko,
his family, and the wide variety of animals on the ranch. Shortly after our arrival, Marko (wearing an
impressive belt buckle and a great pair of cowboy boots) introduced us to two honest creatures,
Thelma and Juliette. These four-legged half-sisters were relaxing in a green field, accompanied by their
foals. Relaxing graciously in the summer heat. Marko patiently explained to us how they breed and
train excellent American Quarter Horses at the ranch. We felt relaxed as we walked among the horses
and felt safe as we participated in our very own Western movie with a Slovenian horse whisperer by
our side.
As soon as Juliette and Thelma were saddled up, under the watchful eyes of several stallions, we
headed to the arena. Here the family had set up a small obstacle course. Marko’s competence and
skills made us feel at ease as we took the two first-class mares for a spin. It felt as if we independently
rode big stubborn motorcycles while following an authentic badass Western horseman’s instructions.
In the end, we felt that our time with these majestic creatures was a time of satisfaction, pleasure, and
joy. Even though the week after, we still felt some pain in our behind. Bouncing up and down in a
Western-style saddle will do that to a rookie.
After our ride, this new cowgirl and cowboy set out to Brežice. We had dinner reservations at Splavar,
rafter’s pub gastro inn. When we arrived, our waitress, Jerry (she refers to herself as the cheeky
cartoon character from Tom & Jerry), kindly greeted us. As we relaxed on the terrace, she asked us if
we wanted to hear what they had planned or if they should surprise us. Naturally, we went for the
surprise treatment. Little did we know that they had a seven-course meal in mind. Every delicious dish
was accompanied by a matching wine for the Slovenian adventurer and a matching beer for the Belgian
explorer. After the first course, both the wine and beer would be consumed by the imported Gaul.
Much can be said about our time at Splavar, rafter’s gastropub. But words cannot adequately describe
how amazing our dining experience was. The creative, scrumptious, and sustainable dishes were the
best we have been served in a long time. Due to this gastronomic journey, we lost track of time, and
our schedule completely derailed. The one-hour dinner quickly turned into a luxurious four-hour treat.
So, in the end, we had to rush towards the farm where we’d spend the night. On our way over, the expat was practicing a sincere Slovene apology: ‘Oprostite ker sva pozna. Imela sva sedem hodov.’ This
is the best that a Belgian can utter (after numerous beers and wines).
Despite our extremely late arrival, Milena and Nero, an adorable social puppy, welcomed us with open
arms at the farm. The pitch-black sky, bright stars, mesmerizing Milky Way, and Milena’s hospitality
quickly made us forget about our late-night entrance. We were led to our charming room, where we
laid down our heads on the soft pillows. After setting our alarms, we became keenly aware of how
silent it was on the farm. Needless to say, we fell asleep right away.
The second day of our exploration started off with a terrific breakfast at the self-sustaining tourist Farm
‘Pri Martinovih.’ A buffet with homemade delicacies, marmalade, and pancakes awaited us as we set
foot in the old house. Franc was socializing with all his guests as Milena was baking pancakes and
preparing coffee in the kitchen. Franc entertained everybody and let us try some of his homemade
schnapps. Shortly after we had filled our bellies, Milena showed us around the estate, which has been
in the family for almost 300 years. It was amazing to observe how much freedom their animals had.
Like in Orwell’s book Animal Farm, the pigs had more perks than the other animals. Such as their own
apple trees and a swimming pool. But even the donkeys, horses, and chickens were able to chill outside
under some old fruit trees. Before leaving, we bought a bottle of Franc’s homemade schnapps (sold in
a clear glass bottle, as is mandatory for homemade liquor).
Half an hour behind schedule (Balkan clocks tick a bit differently), we met up with Boris Papac, a
forester, bicycle enthusiast, and cycling tour guide. Given that it was our first time on an e-bike, Boris
gave us some clear instructions. With his guidance and two fully charged metal stallions, we discovered
the beauty of the municipality of Brežice. We drove through the local forests and climbed to one of
the highest points, approximately 700m. Despite the warm summer weather, it was gratifying to cruise
through the dense forest, with the birds and insects providing life’s cinematic background music. We
didn’t hear anything but nature’s voice. It felt as if we had reached the outskirts of the civilized world.
Until we bumped into a barrier in the middle of the forest. A small sign explained that we had reached
the Slovene – Croatian border. Crossing it might result in being arrested, and apparently, there was
camera surveillance. We never did spot that camera in the canopy of the dense forest, but we didn’t
dare to get cuffed and safely continued cycling in Slovenia.
Boris made sure that the region’s appeal didn’t go unnoticed. We passed by lush vineyards, orchards,
and beautiful cottages. He took us places we would never find on our own, and if we would, we
probably wouldn’t be able to find our way back home. Orienting yourself in a forest or in a city are two
completely different skills, rest assured. Before our final descent, we stopped at a local church on top
of a hill. Here we rang the church’s bell for good luck and put our names in the register dedicated to
the brave visitors who successfully endured the steep climb.
After our 26km-long thrilling adventure, we parked our e-bikes at Pension Les. Here we were able to
catch our breath and recover from the activities that rocked our sheltered world. We enjoyed a lovely
lunch and some revitalizing fresh apple juice at the Pension. Fully satisfied, wiser, and exhausted, we
said goodbye to Boris and Lidija (Radio SI’s warm voice). We drove back home with some beautiful
memories to cherish for years to come.
Kevin and Mankica
Photos: Mankica Kranjec
