May 2024
Amazing adventure to Koroška!
Our first trip to Koroška was an amazing experience! Our family – myself, Colleen, my husband Marko and our young daughter, started our journey on the beautiful drive from our hometown of Slovenska Bistrica. As we wound our way up to a higher altitude, we found that the lovely scenery we experienced was also at another level. From babbling brooks to picturesque homesteads, to towns built with love and care, Koroška began to capture our hearts.
After about an hour and an half, we arrived at our first destination of Ravne na Koroškem. When we pulled up to Youth Hostel Punkl, we were greeted by the warmest and largest smile from our local guide Timi! Timi was eager to get to know us and share his love for his hometown and the region. He gave us a tour of Punkl and let us settle in. We were taken aback; neither Marko nor I had ever stayed in a hostel before and we were beyond pleasantly surprised! The wood interior and exterior are unique and add such a cozy feeling. It was so clean, warm and beautiful- the perfect spot to snuggle up after a long day of touring. As a bonus, our daughter had a fun time playing in the playground just outside!
Marko had a quick rest and got ready for a tour of Ravne na Koroškem with Timi as I was feeling under the weather. Marko and Timi had a lovely time and Marko was impressed by the iron works sculptures around town, the lovely architecture as well as the many parks and amenities. Ravne has such a rich and interesting history dating back many thousands of years. The people from this region are very proud yet humble- perhaps they know that this region is a well kept secret!
I had a different kind of local experience as I ended up visiting the Ravne medical center where I was treated with such kindness and compassion by the nurse and doctor- even though it’s not fun to be unwell while on vacation, I was reassured by the fact that there was such excellent medical care so close by! Meanwhile, Marko and our daughter had fun finding new parks to play in around Ravne- so much fun it was hard to leave the playground!!
Following the tour, Marko and our daughter went on a delicious late lunch to Gostilna Lečnik where local delicacies were served in abundance: beefsteak, prosciutto stuffed with homemade pate, beef soup with dumplings, veal ribs, kipjenke, cranberry sauce, kvočevi noodles, bull anthers, potato salad, dessert! The food tasted so fresh and was made with love. The Gostilna hosts were extremely nice and hospitable! They even gave us plenty of food to take home. We would definitely come back to Gostilna Lečnik!
Later that evening, after more playing in the park and a bit of star gazing from bed, we settled in for the night after such a big day.
On day 2 of our trip, after a great night of sleep (and myself feeling much better), we started the day with a copious breakfast spread of meat, bread, cheese, homemade eggs, fruit and all the fixings! We thought, wow, this is so much food!! Needless to say, we were extremely impressed by the spread! Once again Marko and I remarked about the amazing hospitality we were experiencing in this region!
After breakfast, we got ready for the 45 minute drive to the Najevska Lipa tree. The drive up was even more beautiful than the drive to Ravne- almost all along the way we were accompanied by a babbling brook or river. The towns we drove through, where we saw local markets, history, art and architecture, were spaced apart by pure wilderness- trees aplenty and the freshest air!! Time and again Marko marveled at how this route would be amazing to bike along as he is an avid cycler. I noticed how similar the nature actually felt to the flora and fauna of my home province of Ontario, Canada!
When we arrived at the Najevska Lipa, we felt as though we had traveled back in time (and up in altitude!). The few and far between farmsteads are nestled amongst pristine nature. After asking a very kind local woman for directions, we walked up the short path to Najevska Lipa- wow, what a beautiful tree!! This was a very special moment for us and we took some time as a family to take in Najevska Lipa’s beauty, strength and wisdom. Words cannot really begin to capture the feeling you have when at the Najevsja Lipa- it’s something to be experienced by each individual.
After spending some lovely time admiring Najevska Lipa (linden tree), we headed back on the road again to our next stop! The 30 minute drive, once again, did not disappoint!! We felt further and further away from towns, cities, noise and our daily responsibilities (and also from gas stations, so make sure to fill up!).
When we arrived at our next stop, Planinski dom Kumer, in Koprivna, we wondered how anyone could find this place if they didn’t already know about it! Nestled high above at an altitude of 1218 meters above sea level, this family run farm combines pristine panoramic views with homey traditional hospitality. Humble yet proud, the husband wife duo running the show (and their children helping out as supporting players) are eager to share both conversation and delicious food!! As a bonus, the farmstead has a small playground for children, which our daughter loved! The guest of honor, though, was definitely the neighbour’s extremely friendly and cuddly cat!
We were treated to a scrumptious spread of homemade soup, traditional side dishes, Koroška sausages and a lovely dessert of dried pear dumplings-mmmm! The food was very delicious and felt so healthy and fresh!! Just pure ingredients and everything was made on the farm. Whomever visits Planinski dom Kumer must try the dish made with horseradish and bread- it surprisingly tasted like horseradish but without the usual zing of raw horseradish. Just delicious!!
After lunch, we enjoyed the farmstead, playing in the playground and with the cat, admiring the scenery, looking at bugs amidst the wildflowers and soaking in a bit of sun. We had lovely conversations with the homestead owners, even if some of it was in my broken Slovene! All in all, this was a very lovely and relaxing afternoon!
As we got in the car to drive home, we all felt full with positive feelings about our trip to Koroška and were already talking about our next trip back to the region. This two day adventure had a bit of everything- pure nature, fresh air, relaxation, history, family activities, amazing food and the warmest and friendliest people. Needless to say, Koroška is a hidden gem wholly worth discovering and definitely has a permanent place in our hearts!
Colleen Leminski Toš in Marko Toš Leminski
Photos by Colleen & Marko